The 1995 Zinfandel Frati Ranch (15.6% alcohol) exhibits an opaque black/purple color, followed by a huge, intense, blackberry, cherry, Asian spice, earthy-scented nose. This massive, formidably endowed, tannic yet potentially outstanding Zinfandel could turn out to be the longest-lived Zinfandel of the vintage. The high alcohol is remarkably well-concealed behind the wealth of fruit, glycerin, and structure. This is an impressive, dry Zinfandel with none of the late harvest, raisiny/pruny characteristics readers might expect from a wine with this degree of alcohol. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2012+. Tel. (707) 573-3747

The 1991 Zinfandel-Frati Ranch exhibits a Barolo-like nose of melted road tar and black fruits. Exceptionally tannic in the mouth, it boasts impressive extraction of flavor, full body, and a deep, long, super-rich finish. Most of the depth can be sensed at the back of the mouth. Anticipated maturity: 1996-2005.The three 1991 Zinfandel offerings are the most reassuringly rich, complex wines I have tasted in years from this historic winery. Made for cellaring, they are enormously endowed, tannic, backward wines with considerable body and concentration. All three promise to be thrilling wines, provided buyers exercise some patience. If you do not mind some tannic bite, they can be enjoyed now. How delighted I am to see such quality re-emerge from Joseph Swan!Tel. (707) 573-3747