The 2004 Kallstadter Steinacker Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken combines lemony acidity with the creamy nuttiness inherent in the Pinot Blanc variety. Pungent notes of buckwheat and brown spices complicate the aromas, and the finish offers a mouthful of site-typical chalkiness as well as roasted nuts and spice. There is a bit of Pinot Blanc in the Pfalz, but unfortunately little of it with the poise, clarity of flavors, or distinctive site-typical character exhibited. Bernd Philippi is always late to assemble the individual barrels, much less bottle most of his dry Rieslings from the Saumagen vineyard, so a proper overall assessment of 2004 here will have to wait another year. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300