From slate and limestone vineyards, this is an intense wine, full of tropical fruit flavors, spice, toast and hints of ginger. The wine rolls richly around the mouth, a gorgeous, opulent texture. ——R.V.(12/1/2010)—— 92

It takes a while for the elegant wood to show through this broad, ripe wine. But then it brings an extra richness and vanilla creaminess. The wine is beautifully balanced, with its spice fitting well into the apple juice and green plum fruit flavors. One of the finest Chardonnays from Austria. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 93

From a hilly, chalk-schist environment, and vinified in barrique, the Kollwentz 2006 Chardonnay Tatschler evokes a hint of white raisin from its advanced ripeness, and is overlain with lanolin and caramel from toasted oak. This opulent Chardonnay suggests sweetness as a result of its ripeness, 14% (but in no way obtrusive) alcohol, and wood, and it may well be that it harbors mineral nuances which simply need time to emerge, but I make no prognostication. The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700