From a hilly, chalk-schist environment, and vinified in barrique, the Kollwentz 2006 Chardonnay Tatschler evokes a hint of white raisin from its advanced ripeness, and is overlain with lanolin and caramel from toasted oak. This opulent Chardonnay suggests sweetness as a result of its ripeness, 14% (but in no way obtrusive) alcohol, and wood, and it may well be that it harbors mineral nuances which simply need time to emerge, but I make no prognostication. The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700