The 2008 Semillon Fries Vineyard was barrel-fermented in 20% new oak, 80% used, where it remained for 4 months undergoing partial malolactic. It displays an alluring nose of buttered popcorn, honeysuckle, pear, fig, and a hint of tangerine zest. Round, ripe, dry, and balanced, this tasty effort will drink nicely for 2-3 years. L’Ecole No. 41, under the leadership of Marty Clubb, is one of Walla Walla’s pioneers, the third modern day winery in the Valley. Over the years the winery has prospered, outgrown the namesake schoolhouse, and now is about to outgrow the charming label which may have contributed to its fame. Be that as it may, L’Ecole now produces about 35,000 cases with distribution in all 50 states and abroad. Despite the expansion, quality has remained consistently excellent as has pricing, no doubt the main reason why L’Ecole seems to have survived the recession without too much pain.Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

Ripe and tropical, this vintage of L’Ecole Semillon (one of three different bottlings) is for those who want flavors of new oak front and center. Balanced against that pleasing toastiness is a basket of bananas, papayas, hints of honey and mint. Broad and lush, this has a lot of appeal.——P.G.(11/1/2009)—— 89

An outstanding wine, the fairly priced 2004 Semillon Fries Vineyard Wahluke Slope (500 cases) bursts from the glass with scents of ripe pears, smoke, and tangerines. With aeration (those who decant this beauty will be recompensed), it offers a medium-bodied core of satiny melon, pear, red currant, and tangerine zest flavors. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

Not quite up to the ultraripe heights of recent vintages, this is a somewhat lighter version of this Semillon. Fig and light herb are the dominant flavors, augmented with pretty toasty highlights from the barrel fermentation, and lovely textures from the extended lees contact.——P.G.(8/1/2006)—— 89