This is a ripe wine from La Castellada, more evolved and showing some heaviness. The 2012 Collio Friulano has good structure and minerality, with crushed stone lying underneath notes of canned peach and pineapple. I think I'd pair this with spicy grilled chicken thighs dipped in chipotle mayonnaise. Following four days of skin maceration, the wine ages in barrique for one year. Some 3,300 bottles were produced.

La Castellada's 2009 Collio Friulano opens to a saturated golden color with pretty amber highlights. The bouquet shows oxidative aromas of crushed oyster shell, talc powder, dried apricot and caramel. Due to the age of the wine and the non-interventionist's winemaking approach, there is no fresh fruit left. The wine adopts a sophisticated and introspective approach to Friuli Venezia Giulia's most important white grape. There is no doubt that this is an important wine, but it won't appeal to all.

The 2007 Friulano opens with exotic, expressive aromatics. Succulent yellow peaches, flowers, apricots and mint are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. The 2007 is an intense, full-bodied wine laced with expressive fruit. It possesses gorgeous depth and purity all the way through to the sensual, enveloping finish. The 2007 was fermeneted in a Slavonian oak vat and saw four days of contact with the skins. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. It’s great to see the Bensa family making wines of such distinction from their hillside vineyards in the heart of Collio. Quality and consistency have both been on the rise over the last few years under the leadership of Stefano Bensa. The 2007s were macerated from 4 days to 2 months on the skins and aged predominantly in cask. Bensa describes 2007 as a year with an early harvest, much like 2001. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799