La Castellada's 2009 Collio Friulano opens to a saturated golden color with pretty amber highlights. The bouquet shows oxidative aromas of crushed oyster shell, talc powder, dried apricot and caramel. Due to the age of the wine and the non-interventionist's winemaking approach, there is no fresh fruit left. The wine adopts a sophisticated and introspective approach to Friuli Venezia Giulia's most important white grape. There is no doubt that this is an important wine, but it won't appeal to all.