The appellation's main cave cooperative has made enormous strides, and its 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape—90% Grenache, 5% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre—has turned out slightly floral and strawberry-scented on the nose, then full-bodied, creamy and supple on the palate. It's a notable, tank-aged effort, held back only by some stubborn tannins on the finish—give them a year or two of age, and drink the wine relatively young.

Mainly Grenache (90%), the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape was matured in stainless steel and concrete. It's full-bodied, lush and creamy, without that much richness or depth but with plenty of raspberry and cherry fruit, subtle garrigue shadings and dried spices. It's easy to like and easy to drink.

A rising tide lifts all boats, and that's certainly the case with this 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape, the best showing I can recall from the local cave cooperative's entry-level bottling. It's 90% Grenache, with the rest equal parts Mourvèdre and Syrah, aged in stainless steel and concrete, allowing the silky raspberry and stone fruit elements to shine. Hints of allspice and clove appear on the finish of this full-bodied wine, giving it a modicum of complexity. Drink it over the next 6-7 years.

I was encouraged to see the progress being made at Le Cellier des Princes, the local cooperative. The 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape displays exotic perfumes and ripe fruit, a plush, supple mouthfeel and easygoing finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.