The 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is slightly muddled at first, but give it a few minutes and this wine opens to pretty aromas of dark prune, wet earth, leather, dried fruit and black cherry. There’s a pretty note of sweet cherry on the close and this aged Amarone delivers an immediate and approachable drinking style. Drink: 2014-2020. No American importer.

The 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella is a wine of contrasts. There is plenty of intensity and depth to the fruit, yet at the same time some rough edges detract from the overall balance. Licorice, black cherries, leather and tobacco inform the slightly volatile finish. With a little more polish this could be a significantly better wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a pretty, understated wine with lovely inner perfume in its sweet roses, raspberries, spices and licorice. The tannins remain fine and silky throughout, conveying an impression of elegance. The wine offers outstanding length as well as balance. Though not a blockbuster, the 2004 Amarone impresses for its superb drinkability and balance. Ideally this traditionally made Amarone is best enjoyed if opened an hour or two prior to serving. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Le Ragose is an excellent source for traditionally-made Valpolicellas and Amarones that can be had for very fair prices. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700