The 2012 Pinot Noir Jerome Reserve comes from Wadenswil, 114 and 777 clones, cropped on October 5 and 19 at 1.9 tons per acre. Most of the fruit was destemmed with a high proportion of whole berries, aged for 14 months in 47% new and the remainder used oak barrels. It has one of the most complex aromatic profiles of Lemelson's range, with impressive delineation and focus. Here the fruit is more red than black with subtle forest-floor scents emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite elegant in the mouth with fine tension, although I would have liked a little more flesh and body toward the linear finish. Still, this is nicely focused, almost understated, and should age with style.

The Lemelson 2010 Pinot Noir Jerome Reserve – which represents a best-barrel selection and here favors Stermer and, overwhelmingly, vines of Pommard Selection – is dominated by sweetly ripe black raspberry and cassis accented by caramelized resin, toasted oak, and peat-like smokiness. There is some detached tartness and astringency here – though perhaps other tasters will perceive it as vivacious and invigorating – which becomes especially evident in a to be sure gripping finish, thus perpetuating a somewhat bifurcated tart-caramelized aspect that I found characterized a number of Lemelson wines. Although he practiced environmental law for some years, Eric Lemelson was by then already smitten with Pinot and in a position to plant a vineyard in 1995 and build a state-of-the-art winery in time to receive its first harvest. The number of estate vineyards planted by Lemelson now stands at seven, several subjected to dedicated bottlings. Anthony King arrived here as winemaker from California in 2006. Mindful of the tannic proclivities I witnessed in the wines I tasted, King says he is sparing with punch-downs. He also notes that he put his wines to barrel after somewhat less settling in 2010 as his 2009s taste woodier than he had wanted, adding (and echoing many other winemakers I spoke with) that the inexplicable proclivity of Willamette Pinot Noir to reduce is what keeps him from putting wine into barrel “dirty” (i.e. without settling). The percentage of new oak varies from one- to two-thirds, though hearing the names of Lemelson’s favored tonneliers suggested to me one reason for the prevalence of smoky, toasty, and overtly wood resin character whose prominence bothered me in several of their wines. Apropos which, readers will perceive that I’m out-of-step with the generally highly laudatory consensus about these wines among my fellow critics, and I’ll be especially anxious to taste Lemelson releases again next year, having had no time to follow-up on my sole session in July. (Incidentally, this is among the many Willamette Valley wineries to label with that broad appellation, even where a more specific A.V.A. applies.) Tel. (503) 852-6619

The flagship 2009 Pinot Noir Jerome Reserve spent 15 months in 67% new French oak and was sourced from four vineyards with Stermer playing the leading role. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, coriander, anise, and cedar leads to a spicy, savory, complex Pinot that has the best concentration and length of all the Lemelson wines. It will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and should drink well for a decade. Lemelson Vineyards makes their wines with native yeast fermentations and bottles them without fining or filtration. Tel. (503) 852-6619; www.lemelsonvineyards.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Jerome Reserve is a blend of the top barrels in the cellar. Made with some whole clusters, it is the most expressive of the Lemelson wines both aromatically and on the palate. Dense, satin-textured, bordering on opulent, it is loaded with ripe black fruits. With outstanding volume, balance, and length, it will deliver a drinking window extending from 2013 to at least 2023. Tel. (503) 852-6619; www.lemelsonvineyards.com