The 2016 Corton Grand Cru Les Grandes Lolières Blanc is showing brilliantly from bottle, wafting from the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of crisp green pear, fresh peach, lemon oil, drawn butter, blanched almonds and wheat toast. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied and textural, with an expressive core of fruit, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. Integrated and intense, this is a beautiful 2016 white Burgundy.

The 2009 Corton-Grand Lolieres comes across as rich, fat and boisterous, but then finds a more subdued register as it sits in the glass. It is a powerful, opulent wine endowed with dazzling purity and finesse. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. This is another stunning set of wines from proprietors Mounir Saouma and Rotem Brakim. Saouma and Brakim practice some of the most risk-taking winemaking in Burgundy, especially with regards to elevage. The wines see extended aging on the lees with minimal sulfur. I tasted the 2009s in late June 2011. At the time the wines had never been racked. Readers should note that I accidentally omitted a number of wines from my reviews of the estate’s 2009 reds, in particular the wines from Vosne-Romanee. Those notes are now posted on the site. My tasting concluded with two wines served blind. These turned out to be two 2004 Meursaults. The first wine was made with a pneumatic press and aged with 4 liters of lees per barrel, the second wine was made with a mechanical press and went into barrel with 8 liters of lees. Both wines were aged 18 months and bottled by hand. As it turns out, wine #2 was considerably fresher and much more nuanced than wine #1. Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000