The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes has a strict and lightly honeyed bouquet that perhaps just lacks a little personality at the moment. The palate is well balanced and again, lightly honeyed with touches of white peach and grapefruit, modest concentration on the finish. This premier did not reach the heights of Genevrières or Perrières in this vintage, and this Charmes is another that just suffers by comparison to other vineyards.

The 2009 Meursault Charmes is subtle, delicate and intensely floral, yet very Charmes. A late harvest here yielded a wine with 14.2% alcohol but no heaviness. The rich, intense flavors are nicely supported by a vein of minerality on the intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. This is another stunning set of wines from proprietors Mounir Saouma and Rotem Brakim. Saouma and Brakim practice some of the most risk-taking winemaking in Burgundy, especially with regards to elevage. The wines see extended aging on the lees with minimal sulfur. I tasted the 2009s in late June 2011. At the time the wines had never been racked. Readers should note that I accidentally omitted a number of wines from my reviews of the estate’s 2009 reds, in particular the wines from Vosne-Romanee. Those notes are now posted on the site. My tasting concluded with two wines served blind. These turned out to be two 2004 Meursaults. The first wine was made with a pneumatic press and aged with 4 liters of lees per barrel, the second wine was made with a mechanical press and went into barrel with 8 liters of lees. Both wines were aged 18 months and bottled by hand. As it turns out, wine #2 was considerably fresher and much more nuanced than wine #1.Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000

Following a pattern not unusual in the Le Moine cellars, the fermentation of a barrel of 2007 Meursault Charmes stood still over the winter and when it kicked in again in Spring, malo-lactic transformation followed in its immediate wake. Toasted hickory and walnut, honey, and lightly-caramelized apple and peach in the nose leads to a correspondingly rich and soothing palate, luscious with musk melon and orchard fruits, but also rendered refreshing by an unquenchable stream of citrus. Deep, pungent yet rich nuttiness reprises as part of a long, chordal finish. I feel confident that this is going to be worth treasuring for more than half a dozen years. For more information on the unorthodox and exceptional negociant firm of Rotem Brakin and Mounir Saouma, I refer readers to my report in issue 171. The pair are involved in decisions about the wines they purchase even before the barrels change hands; elevage typically approaches two years; and there are generally only one or two barrels (50 or 100 eventual cases) of each wine, for which reason I have typically noted the relevant volume, and the suggested prices – high in comparison with most sources, but arguably not in view of quality or rarity – must be taken with an especially large grain of tartrate. Brakin and Saouma indubitably believe in the importance of patience and of taking time, in which respect they see their work partly as an attempt to turn back the clock to the practices of an earlier era. Still, this generalization applies only partly to their approach in 2007, plus it is impossible to overlook what Saouma calls "the Bastille Day event of modern Burgundian viticulture," namely vintage 2003. "I'm glad we had 2007 in 2007 and not in 1997." he says. "Because 2003 happened, we were ready mentally to adapt ourselves. I think that it was necessary to pick the 2007 reds beginning around the 25th of August, and the whites around the 3rd through the 10th. of September. And it was important to adapt" to conditions. But Saouma did everything possible to conserve grape solids and to insure that malo-lactic conversions were late and protracted, so as to lengthen total elevage and thereby fill-out and convey both richness and structure to the wines. Most malos were completed in the summer of 2008 – with bottling begun in Spring, 2009 – but one barrel of the Le Moine 2007 Montrachet was still in malo at that point!Imported by Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000