A pure expression of Merlot, the 2010 Crosara exhibits the same jammy fruit flavors that have always distinguished this wine (even though 2010 is considered a cooler vintage in the Veneto). In fact, harvest is scheduled to allow for extra “hang time” in the vineyard to increase concentration and sugar. The wine macerates on its skins for eight days, adding color and strength. Dark extraction and bright notes of dried cherry and blackberry pie distinguish the bouquet. Crosara delivers ample doses of both power and elegance, capped by a luscious, super-soft mouthfeel. Happily, a beautifully focused mineral element keeps the wine from ever feeling overdone. Drink 2015-2025. There are wine regions that make brands, and brands that make regions. Maculan (the brand) put Breganze (the region) on the world enological map. One of the most significant winemaking forces in the Veneto, Maculan eventually grew bigger than the territory that shaped it. At odds with the winemaking guidelines of the Breganze DOC, this historic estate decided to segment its production into two schools of wine: The lower-priced DOC products and the higher-priced IGT offerings. “This was an obligatory step,” says Maria Vittoria Maculan, one of Fausto’s daughters. The good news for consumers is that both are excellent despite the huge, surreal differences in price. I’m also told that Maculan will soon introduce two new wines made with the Recantina and the Marzemino grapes respectively. I look forward to tasting them very soon. Importer: Winebow, www.winebow.com

The 2009 Merlot Crosara comes across as very ripe in this vintage. There is no shortage of intensity as layers of fruit built effortlessly to the long, opulent finish. It will be interesting to see where the 2009 goes from here given the wine’s outstanding track record of ageability. Maculan gave the Crosara 12 months in 100% new French oak barrels. In my view, this wine is being released far too early. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is another strong set of wines from Fausto Maculan, one of the leading lights in Veneto. My only real criticism is that the top reds are being released far too early for wines of such pedigree. These wines rank among the very best being made anywhere, but it is not surprising they remain relatively unknown considering they arrive in the marketplace too young to be fully appreciated. Sadly, there is no new release of the flagship Acininobili, but there are plenty of other great choices in this strong line-up. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Merlot Crosara reveals marvelous concentration and richness in a full-throttle, opulent style. This is so full of unbridled energy I wonder if it is being released far too early. The new French oak remains prominent at this stage, but it will integrate over time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2005 Crosara Breganze (Merlot) reveals gorgeous, expressive aromatics that meld into a palate of ripe dark fruit, sweet herbs and French oak. The wine possesses notable concentration and depth although the tannins could use a little more polish. This is a commendable effort in a very challenging vintage, although understandably, the wine doesn't reach the level of the sublime 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is another set of strong wines from one of Veneto's most inspired producers. Fausto Maculan is best known for his phenomenal dessert wines, but his dry reds merit serious consideration as well. 2005 was a cool, damp year which presented its greatest challenges to early-maturing varieties like Merlot, while the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon had time to recuperate.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2005 Crosara Breganze (Merlot) reveals gorgeous, expressive aromatics that meld into a palate of ripe dark fruit, sweet herbs and French oak. The wine possesses notable concentration and depth although the tannins could use a little more polish. This is a commendable effort in a very challenging vintage, although understandably, the wine doesn't reach the level of the sublime 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is another set of strong wines from one of Veneto's most inspired producers. Fausto Maculan is best known for his phenomenal dessert wines, but his dry reds merit serious consideration as well. 2005 was a cool, damp year which presented its greatest challenges to early-maturing varieties like Merlot, while the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon had time to recuperate. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620