The 2008 Fratta is a serious, powerful red. Today it comes across as a bit closed in on itself, but my impression is that all it needs is further bottle age. Hints of tobacco, earthiness and dried flowers emerge over time, adding considerable complexity to the black fruit. The finish is long and refined, but it, too, needs time to show its full pedigree. Fratta is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2006 Fratta jumps from the glass with tons of vibrant fruit. Roasted coffee beans, graphite, minerals, cassis and French oak develop in the glass, adding further complexity. Although the 2006 comes across as somewhat slender, the wine possesses outstanding length and a refined, polished finish. Fratta is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot that spent 12 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2021. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2005 Fratta is a cuvee of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot that spent 12 months in new French oak. There is greater density and richness, along with superb balance between the wine's fruit and its structural components. This refined, elegant red offers plenty of varietal character and a long, immensely satisfying finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. This is another set of strong wines from one of Veneto's most inspired producers. Fausto Maculan is best known for his phenomenal dessert wines, but his dry reds merit serious consideration as well. 2005 was a cool, damp year which presented its greatest challenges to early-maturing varieties like Merlot, while the later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon had time to recuperate.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2004 Fratta (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) is almost as outstanding. It reveals a more herbal profile, along with masses of jammy fruit and a powerful structure that cries out desperately for bottle age and patience. In time it might rival the Crosara Breganze. Anticipated maturity: 2009- 2019. From top to bottom the most impressive line-up I tasted from Veneto were the wines of Fausto Maculan. Readers will find no shortage of compelling wines at all price points. Maculan remains best known for his sweet wines, but readers will also want to check out some of his table wines from the superb 2004 vintage. Quite honestly I was not prepared for the stunning quality of his Bordeaux-inspired high-end reds.Importer :Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620