The 2015 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up a pretty nose of pastry cream, preserved lime, yellow orchard fruit, tangerine oil and flowers. On the palate, however, the wine is full-bodied but hollow at the core, with a saline, seemingly overripe mid-palate and a lack of structural cohesion. While aspects of this Criots show promise, ultimately it seems to be a 2015 overcome by the warmth of the vintage.

The 2014 Criots Batard Montrachet has a simple citrus peel nose that is calling out for more mineralité, something that nails it down as a grand Cru. The palate is balanced on the entry with a keen line of acidity. I actually prefer this to the Chevalier-Montrachet—more lithe in the mouth, more precision with a touch of salinity on the finish that urges you to take another sip. This is a commendable white 2014 from Louis Latour.

The 2013 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a pleasant reduction on the nose – very Coche-Dury! The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp chalky tannins, impressive depth of fruit and, despite the foursquare finish, it has a certain charm.

So elegant, soft, ripe and generous. The initial take is that it is open in character. Then the more taut, nervy, apple skin and toast flavors come into the balance to give a wine with considerable aging potential. ——R.V.(9/1/2011)—— 93