A release of 17,850 bottles, the organic Manincor 2018 Alto Adige Pinot Nero Mason is a classic expression of the Burgundian grape from the mountainous far north of Italy. It offers an especially compelling performance to both the nose and the palate with a mid-weight and well-concentrated approach. In fact, this Italian version of Pinot Nero shows an extra level of heft and power while remaining elegant and silky all the while. The perfumes veer toward ripe fruit and dark cassis, but you also get plenty of blue flower and candied orange with a hint of clove.

The Manincor 2017 Alto Adige Pinot Nero Mason is a generous and fragrant expression of the versatile Burgundian grape. It shows the sharp focus and pinpoint aromatic precision of high-altitude mountain winemaking. Wild berry, Japanese plum, cassis and fresh lavender sprig stand tall at attention. Those aromas are enhanced by fragrant tones of rosemary and fresh oregano. Ironically, I had commented that the cooler 2016 vintage tasted overripe when I reviewed that wine last year, but this hot 2017 vintage of 16,000 bottles is just right, especially for a plate of roasted game hen. There is a touch of savory or exotic spice on the close. Fruit for this wine is drawn from a site that has benefited from biodynamic and organic farming since 2005.

The jury is out on the 2016 Alto Adige Pinot Nero Mason. The bouquet feels oddly overripe in what is otherwise considered to be a very balanced vintage. Dark fruit and blackberry give the wine a one-dimensional feel. In terms of appearance, this is a beautiful wine with a dark shade of ruby red, but the overall effect lacks balance. Some 19,000 bottles were made.

Here's a dark and surprisingly generous expression of this delicate French grape (made with an all-Italian soul). The 2015 Alto Adige Pinot Nero Mason offers more power in the mouth, comparatively speaking next to the bouquet. The nose shows wild berry and cassis, but it's also shut down at first. The wine is silky and broad in terms of texture. There is a note of ripeness too that recalls apricot and tangerine skin. The finish borders on feeling flat and heavy.