A unique and rare varietal expression of this obscure southern Rhone grape, here blended with 20% Syrah. It’s tart and racy, somewhat Italian in style, a bit like a young Dolcetto. Cranberry fruit, baking spices, powdered sugar and bitter chocolate notes dot the flavor landscape. It’s the strong natural acidity that really sets the wine in motion and keeps the alcohol at bay.——P.G.(2/1/2011)—— 89

The vines are Beaucastel material sourced from Tablas Creek in 1999. The wine is scented and flavored with blue plum, tart pie cherry and blackberry. It is reminiscent of Sangiovese, with bracing acidity and a lightness in the midpalate. McCrea has worked in nice notes of spice, light chocolate and a whiff of soy, making this a perfect salmon wine. ——P.G.(10/1/2006)—— 90

Flowers and red berry fruit make up the aromas of the 2003 Counoise, a medium-bodied, silky-textured effort. Well-balanced and expressive, this red as well as black cherry-flavored wine is sweet, expressive, and friendly. It should be drunk over the next 2-3 years. As a longtime fan of McCrea’s wines, I was taken aback by the fact that only one of the ten wines I tasted could be recommended. Tel. (206) 938-8643; www.mccreacellars.com