Even better, is the 2010 Condrieu Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay. Unfortunately, there are only about 120 cases of this cuvee, which is made from a vineyard planted in 1948 on pure granite. A stunning perfume of white flowers, lychee nuts, peaches, apricots and orange zest are present in this explosively aromatic white wine. In the mouth, it reveals full-bodied flavors as well as terrific acidity and minerality. Drink this stunner over the next 4-5 years, although I would not be surprised to see it last a decade or more. Ogier's wines just keep getting better and better, so if you haven-t yet jumped on the Ogier bandwagon, it's time to do so. Michel Ogier, and more recently his son, Stephane, are the leading craftsmen in terms of wines from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman town of Vienne. These are still entitled to only a VDP designation, but current vintages are the finest he has yet produced.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Even better is the 2009 Condrieu Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay. In contrast to La Combe de Malleval, which is put through 100% malolactic and aged in foudre, the Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay has its malolactic blocked. Perhaps that explains why the wine tastes like powdered granite with honeysuckle and tropical fruits in the background. With noteworthy minerality as well as an incredible finish, this superb Condrieu should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. (Not yet released)One of France’s most brilliant small artisanal wineries is that of the Ogier family in Ampuis, situated about six blocks north of Guigal’s vast network of underground cellars. The value picks are the wines made from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman settlement of Vienne.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083