An unabashedly modern interpretation, with loads of new oak covering the black cherry and black currant flavors. Poised and flashy, with plenty of wood tannins added to the ample grape tannins, leaving a dry impression on the finish, with a very long aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2027.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Triumviratum is completely dominated by French oak, which flattens the fruit and essentially robs the wine of its aromatic nuance. This is fairly pedestrian showing, which is a shame given the quality of Chiarlo’s vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Michele Chiarlo is building a luxury hotel right in the middle of Cerequio. I haven’t seen the interiors yet, but I passed by the hotel several times on my way in and out of the vineyard in late August. The location is utterly breathtaking. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

This is rich and decadent, with ripe fruit and lots of dried meat on the nose. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and lots of complex flavors. Already enjoyable, but will mellow with bottle age. Needs a little more time. Best after 2010. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Triumviratum is made from a blend of the estate’s parcels in Cannubi, Brunate and Cerequio. As is to be expected, the wine has acquired tertiary aromas and flavors of worn- in leather, spices, smoke, dried cherries and sweet oak. Soft-textured and expansive on the palate, the wine offers notable harmony and balance. The tannins have softened quite a bit, making this a fairly accessible wine for the vintage. I would prefer to drink this Barolo sooner rather than later as the structural components look like they will ultimately dominate over the fruit in the wine’s balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. This is a very solid set of wines from Michele Chiarlo, a producer who seems to be moving in the right direction with regards to quality. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756