The Moric 2006 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter (based largely on fruit from the Bodegraben vineyard and young vines in various parts of the Hochberg) already delivers in the nose what have come to seem Neckenmarkt-typical, pronouncedly- and sweetly-pungent Szechuan pepper and fresh black fruits. Bright and firm on the palate and with a palpable sense of extract, it reveals marrow-like, sweet, deep meatiness, hints of cocoa powder, salt, and lead pencil, leading into an insistent, subtly tart yet ripe and lip-smacking finish. As this opens in the glass over an hour’s time, it becomes increasingly nuanced, reflecting the fascinating personalities that each of its geologically and micro-climatically distinct lots displayed in cask. I suspect it will become more winsome over the coming year and that it will hold well for at least 4-5 years. Roland Velich’s Moric project (about which I have written extensively in issues 160 and 177) becomes more exciting by the year, and the 2007 and 2008 vintages will each mark the inception in bottle of new wines involving the re-discovery of forgotten sites and old vines, including a joint Blaufrankisch project with Hannes Schuster in Zagersdorf, whose 2007 debut was quite exciting from cask. Also beginning with the 2007 vintage, incidentally, Velich tentatively envisions a regional blend incorporating some Zweigelt as his introductory level wine.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

The 2005 Blaufrankisch Neckenmarkter delivers aromas of blackberry, smoked meat, and walnut, making for a pleasantly bitter, rather Cabernet Franc-like cast. Juicy, faintly bitter and salty, with subtle tart black fruit and walnut oil on the palate, this clings with a tart, bitter-sweet cast and striking salinity. There will be plenty of rewards for anyone who takes this wine through its paces at the dinner table. And it may gain over a couple of years in bottle, but will, I suspect, be best drunk within 3-4 years.Velich's 2006 reds look to be at least as successful as his 2004s, but I shall report on them only as a group, after all have been bottled. His 2005 Blaufrankisch collection testifies to the quality that was possible in a rain-plagued vintage, if one had well-drained and -ventilated soils, was prepared to wait on this late-ripening variety, and exercised stringent selection and impeccable vinification. All of the wines weighed in at under 13% alcohol (a few lots were lightly chaptalized) but do not taste deficient in ripeness.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com.