Pale ruby in color, the 2010 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard serves up a nose of baked raspberries and cherry cordial with suggestions of wilted roses, baking spices, anise and charcoal. The medium-bodied palate delivers fully mature, classic Nebbiolo perfumed red berry and spice flavors, with a firm backbone and great length.

Lastly, the 2009 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard, which saw 60 months in neutral barrels, offers up notions of currants, ripe black cherries, dried earth and licorice in a medium-bodied, supple and seamless style. Like all of these Nebbiolo releases from Steve Clifton, it has racy acidity and plenty of tannin.

Possessing real Nebbiolo character, the 2008 Nebbiolo Sisquoc has lots of sour cherry, dried rose petal, tar and a touch of underbrush to go with a medium-bodied red that has solid depth of fruit, and good texture and racy acidity. Even though the acidity protrudes currently, this variety has a way of coming together nicely with bottle age, so give it 2-3 more years in the cellar and it should be apparent if it has a solid life ahead of it or if it's time to drink up.

The 2007 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard boasts tremendous length and purity. I especially like the intensity of the fruit here. Dark red fruit, licorice, leather and tobacco flesh out on a firm yet balanced finish supported by insistent veins of salinity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Interestingly, Steve Clifton takes an entirely different approach with Palmina than he does at Brewer-Clifton. Whereas the Brewer-Clifton wines are much more technical and controlled in their precision, at Palmina, Clifton favors natural yeasts and follows a more hands-off approach. Clifton is equally adept with both styles, something that says a lot about his natural talent. Nebbiolo is one the Palmina specialties. As good as the Palmina Nebbioli can be, my fear is that some of these wines will ultimately prove to have very narrow drinking windows. The Nebbioli clearly need time in barrel for the tannins to soften, but by the time they do, the aromas are often quite forward. Tel. (805) 735-2030, www.palminawines.com

The 2006 Nebbiolo Sisquoc Vineyard, from 100% Michet vines, is flat-out stunning. Sweet red cherries, flowers and spices are some of the notes that flow from this vibrant, beautifully delineated wine. This shows fabulous Nebbiolo typicity and tons of style. It is frankly an eye-opening wine that shows what Nebbiolo is capable of in California. This is a dazzling effort from Steve Clifton. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I can’t think of anyone who has done more to promote Italian varieties in California than Steve Clifton with his Palmina label. I admit I was intrigued with these offerings, and came away deeply impressed with most of what I tasted. I am still not 100% convinced all of these grapes have significant potential in California, but most of them do. Some of the wines remain works in progress, including the Lagrein and Sangiovese Undici. Tel. (805) 735-2030; www.palminawines.com