The 2003 Dominio Cusine 1790 is produced only in the top vintages. The blend is similar to the 2003 Absis but it is four times as expensive. Similarly styled, it reveals notes of oak, mineral, scorched earth, blueberry, and blackberry in a firm, rustic package. It needs 5-7 years of cellaring but there is nothing here to suggest that it will ever remotely justify its jaw-dropping price-tag. Pares Balta is to be commended for attempting to take the D.O. of Penedes to another level but the pricing structure is more reminiscent of Bordeaux.Pares Balta is one of a number of wineries in Penedes with serious aspirations. It produces a wide range of wines from Cava to Rose to stratospherically priced red wines. While Pares Balta appears to be a work in progress, it is clear that their intention is to produce world-class wines. While Pares Balta makes many different Cavas, the importer only brings in their two top-of-the-line sparkling wines. Several of Pares Balta’s red wines could not be recommended and the best of the rest possess a certain rusticity that belies their lofty price tags.Importer: Bryce McNamee, Boutique Wine Collection, Philadelphia, PA; www.boutiquewines.info

The 1996 Dominio Cusine 1790 (a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah) boasts a deep, saturated ruby/purple color to the rim, a big, sweet, complex perfume of black fruits, chocolate, and espresso, and a richly textured, medium to full-bodied, pure mouthfeel. Supple tannin in addition to well-integrated wood and acidity result in an impressive wine, one of the finest I have yet tasted from Penedes. (Not yet released) Importer: Boutique Wine Collection, New York; tel. (914) 954-6583