The hugely spicy 2003 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvee Speciale (white) is a hedonist’s delight. Thick, hugely concentrated, and velvety-textured, it coats the taster’s palate with super-ripe white fruits, roasted oak, a myriad of spices, and apple marmalade. Its outstanding depth (the deepest 2003 I tasted), power, balance, richness, and length are superb. Projected maturity: now-2020. Bravo to Patrick Javillier! A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also imported by David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800; and Wines Ltd., Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662

From a parcel with southern exposure in the Pougets sector, the 2002 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvee Speciale sports a creamy, nutty nose. Medium to full-bodied, soft, and plush, this rich, fat, dense wine coats the taster’s mouth with layers of spicy toasted white fruits. It is concentrated, well-balanced, and exceptionally long., Drink it between 2009-2018. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

Big, broad, and expansive, the buttered popcorn-scented 2001 Corton-Charlemagne Cuvee Speciale is a deep, sexy, medium-bodied wine. Its concentrated, rich, lush layers of buttered nuts, spices, and minerals linger on the palate for 30 seconds or more. Projected maturity: now-2010. To Patrick Javillier, 2001 was a classic vintage with normal ripeness levels and problem-free fermentations, “I really don’t see where the problems are ... total acidity was in the 5.5 to 6.0 range and finished pHs were between 3.2 and 3.25, it’s all very classic.”

The 2000 Corton-Charlemagne Mise Speciale bursts from the glass with fresh apples and toast aromas. Ripe and rich pear-like flavors can be found in its medium-bodied, youthfully tight character. It is somewhat austere, like many Cortons in 2000, yet beautifully delineated. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2010. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910