The 2014 Meursault Clos du Cromin has a stoic and almost Chablis-like bouquet, much more mineral-driven than fruit-driven, with cold, wet limestone and granite aromas developing in the glass--Puligny-like, in fact. The palate is well balanced, hints of apricot and mango on the back palate intertwined with a fine bead of acidity. It is a little more conservative than the Tête de Murger at the moment, but there is an engaging purity and refinement in position. This comes recommended.

The 2013 Meursault Clos du Cromin, which sees no new wood, has an attractive custard crème and lemon-curd-scented bouquet, perhaps more modern in style than others, but delineated and focused. The palate is beautifully poised with orange zest and a light touch of peach. There is fine tension here, good weight with plenty of spice on the finish that lends it persistence in the mouth. This is a very capable Meursault in the making, although the Tête de Murger has the complexity.

Tasted blind at Farr Vintners Kumeu/White Burgundy tasting. Clear and limpid silver in colour, the 2012 Meursault Clos du Cromin has a very well-defined, popcorn and almond-scented bouquet with a light orange zest element that becomes more pronounced with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with light citrus peel on the entry. The complexity here does not quite match the nose, though it is nicely balanced. It needs more substance to come through on the finish though that may develop with bottle age, hence my plus sign.