The 2005 “DOLIUM” BRANCO ESCOLHA (escolha "special selection,” in essence) is 100% Antao Vaz, one of the signature white varietals of Alentejo, raised 100% in French oak. It has a lot going on, but it is hard to find the fruit. There is some oak, lots of nuances that I attribute to lees contact, and some heavy smoky notes which I suspect were in large part from reduction. It is downright stinky on opening, and for as long as I held it, those aromas never fully disappeared. It is stinky enough on opening so that you can smell it a foot away. A second bottle tasted was worse, if anything. Think of a match struck near your nose. It follows through on the palate. I liked this wine’s focus, depth and intensity, but it is hard to find the fruit with everything else going on. It seems positioned as a fairly serious white, but I suspect the aromatics will never be right. Drink now-2010. You may see EBORAE VITIS E VINUS on some of the labels for this wine, as on the Dolium. That was a prior company, as I understand it. All of the wines should have Paulo Laureano Vinus as producer eventually, although the proprietary names like “Dolium” are what you will see in big letters on the front no matter what.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044.