Hard tannins and high acidity make this inky-colored wine hard and distant now, an impression enhanced by extreme dryness. With its blackberry, currant, cocoa, beef jerky and pepper flavors, it’s the kind of Petite Sirah that will last for many years, gradually softening and mellowing until it’s just an echo of itself around 2020.——S.H.(4/1/2010)—— 87