The 2008 Taurasi Riserva is a beautifully territory-driven expression with dried fruit, pressed cherry, spice, barbecue smoke and scorched earth. However, my observations also include the fact that the wine is mature and far down its evolutionary track. Indeed, the tannins are absolutely polished like a perfectly round river stone. My feelings are mixed; the best strategy is if you purchase this wine to consume right away, but I don't see the point of putting it through any more cellar aging. Some 5,000 bottles were made.

This gamy red offers plenty of ripe mountain berry fruit to the wild herb, leather and tobacco notes that grace the finish. Full-bodied, with integrated tannins and enough acidity to keep the fruit driving. Drink now through 2020. 660 cases made, 120 cases imported.??–NW??Region: Italy / South / Taurasi Select to Add

The 2004 Taurasi Riserva flows with wild cherries, ash, cured meats, spices, licorice and leather. This is a long, beautifully balanced Taurasi Riserva with gorgeous harmony and persistence. Flowers and mint add further shades of complexity on the elegant finish. The 2004 needs a few years to become fully expressive, but it is clearly highly promising, even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. These three Taurasis from Perillo are all impressive. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994

The 2003 Taurasi Riserva is richer and deeper than the 2004 but lacks that wine’s delineation and clarity. Instead, readers will find a lovely roundness, plushness and overall sense of accessibility that make the 2003 absolutely delicious today. Hints of chocolate, worn-in leather and spices round out this tasty Taurasi. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. These three Taurasis from Perillo are all impressive. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994