While this nudges the B-side of optimal drinking, there is a great deal to like. The tannic refinement, for a start. The nose, too, a confluence of tobacco, volcanic dust, beef bouillon, dill, wild fennel and umami warmth. The finish, long, herbal and savory. Still lovely drinking, but best supped soon. Drink now.

As I have noticed in past years, this winery tends to release this Taurasi very late. I doubt the wisdom of that choice because this hot-vintage expression is quite evolved and tertiary in character. With any primary fruit by now faded, the Perillo 2011 Taurasi is a full-bodied red with an inky dark appearance and aromas of dried fruit, baked plum, tar, asphalt, smoke and cured meat. There is a dark volcanic signature of campfire ember, and it's all a bit much. These results are heavy and largely over the hill. Aged in oak for 24 months, production is 6,000 bottles.

This late release of 5,000 bottles is quite old and aged, and I'm not sure what value is found here. The wine shows heavy, baked fruit, cured meat and saddle leather. Thick and syrupy in richness and concentrated density, this 2010 Taurasi from Perillo is over the hill.

This 2009 Taurasi is old-school and maybe a bit flat in places, as there doesn't appear to be much fruit left after nearly a decade in the bottle. You can, however, still pick up some notes of cherry liqueur, licorice, crushed stone and campfire ash. The wine sees 25 days of skin maceration and up to 12 months of aging in barrique. Some 5,000 bottles were made.

It is not easy to cozy up to the 2007 Taurasi. The wine is a bit awkward with old and somewhat flat aromas of dried fruit, spice and campfire ash. There is no primary fruit left and this Taurasi has moved considerably forward in its evolution. The finish is tight and slightly astringent. The aging regime includes 12 months in barrique and an additional ten months in botte grande. I would have liked to try this wine five years ago.