The estate's 2004 Taurasi is made in a fairly restrained style. Smoke, wild cherries and flowers are some of the nuances that emerge from this silky, medium-bodied offering. The wine displays considerable freshness and clean minerally notes on the finish, which should allow it to develop nicely in bottle over the coming years. Today the wine remains tightly wound and in need of at least another year in bottle. It may very well merit a higher score in a year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Michele Perillo's tiny estate is located in Castelfranci, which Taurasi lovers will recognize as one of the most famous zones for Aglianico in Irpinia. Importer: Jan D-Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994

Earthy tones of farmyard, wet wool and dewy hay probably weren’t by design. It’s hard to get at the real fruit although glimmers of blueberry and black cherry do break through. The wine has tight, thick extraction.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 83