A pure expression of Merlot, the 2010 Quercegobbe is a massive wine with type-A aromas of black cherry, blackberry preserves, Indian spice and moist tobacco. The style is opulent and boldly layered and the tannins are velvety and firm. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. The man behind Bellavista, Contadi Castaldi (both in Franciacorta) and Tenuta La Badiola in Maremma, entrepreneur Vittorio Moretti engaged the talent of architect Mario Botta to build Petra near Suvereto in 2001. Italy’s era of the designer winery was suddenly born. The monumental building is inspired by “stone in motion,” thus the name Petra. Importer: Terra Moretti Trading USA; www.tmtrading-usa.com

The 100% Merlot 2009 Quercegobbe wraps around the palate and never lets up. Waves of dark red fruit, mocha, spices, French oak, licorice and new leather take shape in the glass as this rich, opulent wine shows off its pedigree. The 2009 is less exciting than the 2008, but it is compelling just the same. Ideally, the wine should be cellared for another few years, but it is already quite promising. As is often the case, Merlot does especially well here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I rarely hear Petra mentioned in a discussion of the best wines and wineries from the Tuscan coast, but year after year the wines are reliably outstanding and fairly priced for the neighborhood. The house style is one of bold, exuberant wines. Frankly, I am not sure it is possible to make anything but that type of wine in this part of Maremma. Petra is part of Vittorio Moretti’s empire, which is best known for its crown jewel, Bellavista. In 2009 the estate decided not to make their top selection, the Petra Rosso. At a time when virtually all wineries bottle their flagships pretty much every year, it is refreshing to see a winery willing to skip a vintage it deems less important. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106

The 2008 Quercegobbe (Merlot) is an intense, juicy wine. Blueberry jam, mocha, spices and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. This is a decidedly opulent Merlot with plenty of lush fruit and expressive aromatics, all supported by smooth, silky tannins. Quercegobbe spent 15 months in 600-liter demi-muids, 80% new. To be released in April 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106

The 2007 Merlot Quercegobbe opens with super-ripe cherries, kirsch and the occasional hint of white truffle. Sweet baking spices, leather and licorice add layers of complexity on the suave, caressing finish. This is a mid-weight, open Quercegobbe that should continue to drink nicely for a number of years. The only thing that keeps the score from going higher is an element of heat that peaks through from time to time. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Petra is one of my favorite properties for intense, flavorful wines from the Suvereto district in Maremma. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106