Petra’s 2003 Quercegobbe (Merlot) is a fat, full-bodied wine loaded with dark fruit, licorice, tar, chocolate, earthiness and sweet toasted oak. Of course 2003 was brutally hot, and I would not be surprised if there was a small amount of residual sugar here as the wine comes across as noticeably sweet. This is a fascinating wine in that it seems to speak more about the qualities of the unique Suvereto terroir than those of the Merlot grape. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. This is a very solid set of new releases from Petra, a young property in Suvereto.Importer: Blavod Extreme, Franklin, TN; tel. (615) 771-9111

The fruit appears very ripe, almost too ripe, making the wine difficult to pair with food because of the width and intensity of its jammy nose. Yet more harmonious tones of chocolate, coffee and spice kick in at the rear to add dimension.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 86