The 100% Merlot 2009 Quercegobbe wraps around the palate and never lets up. Waves of dark red fruit, mocha, spices, French oak, licorice and new leather take shape in the glass as this rich, opulent wine shows off its pedigree. The 2009 is less exciting than the 2008, but it is compelling just the same. Ideally, the wine should be cellared for another few years, but it is already quite promising. As is often the case, Merlot does especially well here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I rarely hear Petra mentioned in a discussion of the best wines and wineries from the Tuscan coast, but year after year the wines are reliably outstanding and fairly priced for the neighborhood. The house style is one of bold, exuberant wines. Frankly, I am not sure it is possible to make anything but that type of wine in this part of Maremma. Petra is part of Vittorio Moretti’s empire, which is best known for its crown jewel, Bellavista. In 2009 the estate decided not to make their top selection, the Petra Rosso. At a time when virtually all wineries bottle their flagships pretty much every year, it is refreshing to see a winery willing to skip a vintage it deems less important. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106