The 2010 Dolcetto di Dogliani is loaded with varietal character in its sweet red berries, smoke, licorice, ash and tar. It shows plenty of elegance and fine overall balance. A long, silky finish adds to an overall impression of harmony. The 2010 Dolcetto is a lovely bottle at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2009 Dolcetto di Dogliani offers up dark red fruit, bacon fat, smoke and licorice in a surprisingly rich style for an entry-level bottling. This shows wonderful density and tons of Dogliani character. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Einaudi is a reference point producer for top-notch Dolcetto from Dogliani. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Wild berries, blueberries and some natural rubber come to the forefront of this bright, young Dolcetto. In the mouth, it offers cooling fruit flavors with a hint of firmness in the form of polished tannins.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 87