The 2015 Kaplja is Chardonnay, Friulano and Malvasia that sees up to 90 days of skin maceration in oak. The wine opens to a pretty orange-gold color that shines bright in the glass. The bouquet presents candied aromas of apricot and orange peel, but there are also savory notes that recall saffron and curry powder. As it opens in the glass, the wine tends to offer more almond aromas of the honey-toasted kind, emerging with prominence. This is a full-bodied white with a compact, firm structure to pair with a sage-and-pumpkin ravioli.

The 2014 Kaplja is a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Friulano and 30% Malvasia that sees up to 90 days of skin maceration during fermentation in oak. Only 5,500 bottles were made. This hearty, full-textured wine shows a dark golden color with amber hues. In terms of aromas, it offers tones of candied orange peel, apricot, honey and crushed river stone. Despite the difficulties of the vintage, this wine offers a seamless and silky mouthfeel.

The 2011 Kaplja is a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Friulano and 30% Malvasia Istriana that undergoes long skin maceration times (up to three months). Part of the "orange" school of winemaking, the blend opens to a golden-amber color and aromas of candied fruit, orange preserves, crushed mineral and almond marzipan. The brightness and the intensity of the bouquet is impressive. In the mouth, the wine is dry and tight with evident firmness on the close. It ages in large oak casks for 36 months.

Light amber or orange in appearance, the 2009 Bianco Kaplja is a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Friulano and 30% Malvasia Istriana. The wine remains in contact with its grape skins for up to 90 days and later goes into wood for 23 months. Orange peel, candied pineapple and dried apricot form the bouquet. There’s a very obvious mineral shading as well. Kaplja shows dry, firm tannins at the back. Drink: 2014-2020. These are a great set of Orange wines from natural winemaker Damijan Podversic. Importers: Omniwines Distributing, www.omniwines.com; Vinity Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com

The 2008 Bianco Kaplja is a blend of 35% Chardonnay, 35% Friulano and 30% Malvasia. It is the most overt and international of the wines in Damijan’s lineup. Succulent yellow peaches, apricots, flowers and spices take on burnished tones as this rich, textured wine opens up in the glass. Layers of fruit build to the harmonious, expressive finish. The Kaplja is beautiful, although my own personal preference is for the single variety wines. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Damijan Podversic is one of Friuli’s most inspired artisan producers. Vintage 2008 was challenging for Podversic. Hail wiped out a significant amount of his Friulano, so there is no Nekaj bottling. On a more positive note, the cold weather allowed for the development of botrytis – especially in the Ribolla and Malvasia – and a very late harvest. The 2008s saw 2-3 months of contact on the skins, followed by 2 years in cask and another year and half in bottle. These aren’t the most immediate wines, but they will provide immense pleasure to those who are willing to spend some time with them. No American importer