The 2007 Chianti Superiore (90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot) is a sleek, racy wine with impeccable balance in its ripe fruit. The wine reveals a long, harmonious finish, with pretty floral notes that add a sense of lift on the close. This is a terrific effort from Poggiotondo. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013.With the 2007 vintage, proprietor Alberto Antonini has decided to pursue a more ambitious approach with the wines from his family’s estate. Yields are down, the use of French oak is up, and the resulting wine is quite striking for this appellation, which traditionally has not been considered one of Tuscany’s finest.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Poggiotondo’s 2005 Chianti Superiore may merit an even higher rating as it tastes like a Chianti Riserva. Cedary, black currant, white chocolate, bay leaf, and spice-like characteristics emerge from this lovely red. It possesses excellent ripeness, medium to full body, and impressive density as well as richness. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9868.

A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, the 2004 Chianti Superiore was exposed to a small amount of oak, but that component is not noticeable in its personality. Aromas of white chocolate, black cherries, strawberries, and a hint of new saddle leather emerge from this dense, medium-bodied, opulent red. Drink it over the next 1-3 years.