Luisa Ponzi decided not to make any vineyard designates in the 2009 vintage so the 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve was the beneficiary of that fruit. Dark ruby red in color, it exhibits an alluring perfume of cedar, Asian spices, incense, lilacs, black cherry, and black raspberry. Meatier and richer than the Willamette Valley bottling, it has enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years and will deliver optimum drinking from 2012 to 2019. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Reserve is 100% Chehalem Mountain fruit. Aromas of white pepper, Asian spices, incense, black cherry, and black raspberry lead to a structured effort with loads of savory fruit crammed into its medium-bodied frame. With excellent volume and well-balanced by lively acidity, it should evolve for 3-4 years and deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2023. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com