The 2009 TINTO (the otter label this year, the latest in the rotating wildlife pictures) is a blend of Touriga Nacional, 30%; Tinta Roriz, 25%; Touriga Franca, 20%; and 20% an old vines field blend. Pointed, with lurking powerful and beautiful structure, this year’s iteration of this Tinto is quite rather lovely and beautifully balanced. The fruit evolved beautifully with time, becoming quite delicious, although it took awhile to get there. It should age reasonably well and continue to improve for several years in the cellar. Give it a year to settle down. That said, right at the moment, I liked it better than its disjointed Reserva sibling. Drink now-2020. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

The 2008 TINTO is a blend of 40% Touriga Nacional, 20% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Roriz and 20% an old vines field blend. It seems to be a very typical ’08, a little hard edged in its youth, crisp and sunny, with bright, fresh fruit and a certain austerity early on. Disjointed when I saw it, it needed a good 90 minutes or so to finally show some velvet and some fruit, at which time the fruit coated the palate in a very appealing fashion and delivered clean, pure flavors. This is a very nice Tinto with some cellaring potential and a lot of persistence. Drink 2011-2018. Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620

In an intriguingly old-fashioned style, all hard tannins and brooding power, this wine also impresses with its stern demeanor. How it will develop is hard to tell at this stage. To judge by the simpler quinta wine (see September 2008 Buying Guide), the fruits will come through, but this Reserva certainly demands a long wait. ——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 92

The 2007 TINTO is a fine effort and good value this year. It is a blend of Touriga Nacional (30%), Tinta Roriz (25%), Touriga Franca (25%) and a field blend from an old vines vineyard for the rest. This fragrant wine shows good mid-palate concentration for the regular Tinto, a bright demeanor, with flavorful, pure and clean fruit marked by touches of herbs and plums popping up underneath. It has the backbone to hold awhile, too, and it shows intensity and grip on the finish. Drink now-2017. Prices continue to see-saw here and at other wineries as importers and producers try to account for the economy and exchange rates, as well as more ordinary market concerns. The Reserva is UP, the Passa and Tinto are DOWN, at least according to estimated list prices, which are admittedly sometimes pure fiction (usually on the high side) compared to what happens in the actual marketplace. That said, the Tinto should be a nice value in 2007.Importer: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620