This winery has turned out three delicious, crisp, personality-filled dry white wines. The excellent 1995 Johannisberg Riesling is dry, surprisingly intense, medium-bodied, with plenty of floral and mineral-like flavors, excellent purity, a well-delineated, intense mid-palate, and a dry finish. It should drink well for several years. Tel. (805) 934-4332

Virtually all of the 4,000+ cases of Rancho Sisquoc's wines are sold via a mailing list or directly from the winery, so subscribers are not likely to see much of this producer's wines on retailers' shelves. Such is the case with many of Santa Barbara's highest quality wineries. This vast ranch includes over 200 acres, but most of the grapes are sold to wineries such as Robert Mondavi, Foxen, and Gainey. The 1991 Johannisberg Riesling is one of the best dry American Rieslings I have tasted. Floral-scented, with considerable body and length, as well as an inner core of mineral, apple-like fruit, and broad, expansive flavors, this classy, complex, impeccably made wine is delicious. Lamentably, readers will have to get on Rancho Sisquoc's mailing list in order to latch on to a few of these gems. Tel. (805) 934-4332