An impressive wine, with more meatiness and earthiness, is the dark purple-colored 2006 Syrah Kick Ranch, which shows hints of tobacco leaf, roasted Provencal herbs, meat juices, and loads of spice and earth. It is not as fruit-driven as the Truchard Vineyard, but rather a very different animal altogether, in a completely different style, but it is all the better for it. Tel. (707) 265-9061; Fax (707) 253-8850

The outstanding 2005 Syrah Kick Ranch offers up scents of road tar, creme de cassis, ground pepper, and loamy earth. Deep ruby/purple, chewy, and rich, it is a stunning effort from the cool 2005 vintage. Tel. (707) 265-9061