An intriguing food-friendly dry white is the 2007 Bianco Spettro, a blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Chardonnay, and 15% Viognier. Its captivating bouquet of honeysuckle, white currants, quince, and tropical fruits is followed by a medium-bodied wine that is bursting with personality. It requires consumption over the next year because of its delicate perfume. This is a two-tiered operation with the Saddleback Cellars wines generally made from blends of estate fruit from their 20 acres in Oakville as well as purchased lots. The Venge Family Reserve cuvees are made from nearly all estate grown fruit with small amounts of purchased fruit utilized as well. The Venge Family Reserve wines tend to be the more esteemed, and consequently, are higher priced. This is a fun estate to visit as there is no shortage of personality from the father and son team of Nils and Kirk Venge. The flagship offerings appear under the Venge Family Reserve label. Some enticing wines are produced, largely from estate vineyards in Oakville, but occasionally supplemented by purchased fruit.Tel. (707) 944-1305; Fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Family Reserve: Tel. (707) 942-9100; Fax (707) 942-9121

The 2006 Bianco Spettro Venge Family Reserve is a delicious, exotic, food-friendly, dry white made from 47% Chardonnay, 44% Sauvignon Blanc, and 9% Viognier. It is a non-malolactic, bone dry, medium-bodied white boasting a fruit cocktail-like fragrance, and loads of flavor as well as personality. It is best drunk in its first 1-2 years of life. The two Venges, father Nils and son Kirk, look like two Vikings who somehow ended up in Napa Valley, with Nils taking the cowboy route and Kirk following a more conservative path. They own over twenty acres of estate vineyards, six of which are dedicated to the Venge Family Reserve operation in Oakville, and the balance to the Saddleback label. They supplement their estate production with some purchased fruit that forms the backbone of their white wine program, all light, non-malolactic whites that are meant to be drunk during their first several years of life.Tel. (707) 944-1305; Fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Winery tel. (707) 967-1008

A serious, crisp, Italian-inspired white is the 2005 Venge Family Reserve Bianco Spettro, a blend of 43% Chardonnay, 42% Sauvignon Blanc, and the rest Viognier and Marsanne. Dry and crisp, with loads of fresh fruit aromas, tangy acidity, no evidence of wood, and a zesty, medium-bodied finish, it is a handsome, food-friendly white to enjoy over the next several years. Previously recommended: 2002 Venge Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (97), 2003 Venge Family Reserve Merlot (90).Saddleback Cellars tel. (707) 944-1305; fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Winery tel. (707) 967-1008

The more limited production, flagship cuvees are bottled under the Venge Family Reserve label. One of the newest entries in this portfolio is the 2004 Bianco Spettro, an intriguing blend of 55% Chardonnay, 38% Sauvignon Blanc, and the rest Marsanne. Crisp, elegant, dry, and fresh with terrific fruit, a striking minerality, and loads of citrus oil characteristics, it can be drunk over the next 1-2 years with an assortment of foods. Shortly before I wrote this report, I had my last bottle of one of Venge’s great Cabernet Sauvignons, the 1978 Villa Mt. Eden (a vineyard now owned by Plumpjack). Still spectacular at 27 years of age, this fabulously complex Cabernet Sauvignon is further proof that few people have as much experience and a resume as impressive as the ebullient Nils Venge.Saddleback Cellars tel. (707) 944-1305; fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Winery tel. (707) 967-1008

The new offering, 2002 Bianco Spettro is a blend of 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Gris. The wine exhibits good freshness, an alluring touch of minerality, crisp acidity, medium body, and grapefruit as well as citrus notes in the nose and flavors. Drink it over the next year. Saddleback Cellars: tel. (707) 944-1305; fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Winery: tel. (707) 967-1008