The mid-tier Saladini Pilastri 2015 Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna Montetinello (made from a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese) offers loads of vintage character with so much of the ripe and generous flavoring we see in wines from this sunny and warm vintage. Blackberry preserves and dried cherry are two of the aromatic protagonists to be found in any classic Rosso Piceno. The wine ages in barrique for 10 months. The Montetinello vineyard makes about 50,000 bottles.

Very soft and velvety, the 2011 Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna Montetinello shows a darkly concentrated appearance with heavy aromas of ripe fruit, blackberry preserves, roasted coffee, Indian spice and dark licorice. The wine delivers medium weight and a slightly gritty texture. Vigna Montetinello is a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese that sees 16 months in oak. The quality of fruit is dry and aged.

One of the more brooding wines in the lineup, Saladini Pilastri’s 2010 Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna Montetinello is a big boy. Tar, smoke, licorice and earthiness fill out a baritone register full of dark aromas and flavors. Montepulciano takes the lead in this intense, rich Rosso Piceno. I have a slight preference for some of the more refined wines in this range, but it is impossible not to admire the Montetinello for its quality and overall value. There is no shortage of intensity or richness here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Saladini Pilastri excels with a broad range of value-priced wines that are loaded with character and personality. Importer: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021

The 2009 Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna Montetinello is less generous and complete than some of the other wines in this lineup. There just doesn't seem to be enough fruit to support the oak. This is still a solid wine, just not the screaming value it can be. Wild black cherries, licorice, leather and smoke linger on the finish. The Montetinello is 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese aged for 18-20 months in 500-liter French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide range of delicious, value-priced wines. The reds in particular are worth note even if the 2009s aren't among the very finest wines I had had from the estate.Importers: Michelangelo Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021

The 2008 Rosso Piceno Superiore Montetinello is a dark, brooding wine that impresses for the integrity of its fruit and depth. Wild cherries, earthiness, herbs, licorice and leather are some of the notes that flow from this relatively large-scaled, burly Rosso Piceno. The overall balance here is first-rate, and the Montetinello is the finest of the estate’s 2008s. Ideally it is enjoyed with hearty foods. The Montetinello is 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese, aged in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide range of wines, but readers are best served focusing on the reds. Incredibly, all of those wines can be had for under $25 a bottle. Importers: The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021