The 2016 Montepirolo is a handy blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc that delivers a powerful framework of fruit, all surrounded by balanced and appropriately measured layers of spice and toast. Those fruit and oak elements are in happy lockstep. The grapes see longer pump-over times with extended maceration in order to lock in all the generous and dark fruit on display here. The wine then ages in both new and neutral oak for 12 months. Production ranges from 10,000 to 20,000 bottles, depending on the vintage.

The 2007 Colli di Rimini Montepirolo is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It shows rich and supple density with aromatic highlights of black fruit, spice and licorice. A pretty mineral note of crushed stone also appears. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. San Patrignano is a truly inspiring story. It is a community center for recovering drug addicts located on a sprawling property with vineyards, horses and farm stables for making cheese and sausage. There is even an excellent on-site restaurant where everything served is sourced or produced on site. All the labor at San Patrignano – from making wines to the restaurant staffing – is performed by the recovering addicts as part of their reintegration learning. The wines are absolutely stunning and have shown an impressive stylistic evolution over the years. When I first tasted San Patrignano a decade ago, they mirrored the outgoing personality of consulting enologist Riccardo Cotarella. Today, however, they have embraced an ethereal and exceedingly understated persona. Various American importers including: Vinvino Wine Co.; www.vinvinowineco.com; Masciarelli Wine; www.masciarelliwine.com

The 2006 Montepirolo (Cabernet) is the most vibrant of these new releases from San Patrignano. Dark plums, blackberries, mint, violets, sage, herbs and spices spin out from a massive, powerful frame. The wine reveals superb length, a polished close and remarkable overall balance. Today the tannins are a touch imposing, but a few additional years in bottle should help smooth things out. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was quite frankly blown away by the wines I tasted from San Patrignano this year. San Patrignano is a community built with a mission to help young people recovering from alcohol and drug dependencies return to productive lives. Given the estate’s noble goals, I am particularly happy to see that the wines are so strong this year. The biggest news at San Patrignano, though, is for the future. The estate is gradually moving away from the overtly commercial style of its first vintages. Beginning in 2009 the approach for the top wines is much more based on a non-interventionalist approach to the vineyards and cellar. San Patrignano has enlisted the services of no less than Gianfranco Soldera to lend a hand, so needless to say it will be fascinating to see what develops here. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2005 Colli di Rimini Montepirolo (Cabernet) offers up violets, sweet spices, menthol, sweet herbs and black cherries in a vibrant, fresh style. The wine shows lovely clarity and precision, not to mention commendable overall balance. This is a terrific effort from San Patrignano. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. These are three pretty wines from San Patrignano, one of the more unique wineries in Italy. San Patrignano was founded as a center to help young people recover from substance abuse dependencies by offering them arange of opportunities to study and work within the large, sprawling estate. San Patrignano makes a wide range of agricultural products, including cheeses, meats, olive oils and, of course, wines. I remain very impressed with the quality the estate is able to achieve from its vineyards near Rimini, a region that is not exactly known for yielding top-flight reds. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Here’s a wine from Central Italy (the Adriatic flank of the peninsula) that rivals the intensity and sophistication of Bordeaux. There are deep and luscious layers here of spice, black fruit, espresso and leather. What will really surprise and delight you is the focused and sharp clarity of this wine.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 92