The 2013 Alghero Terre Bianche Torbato is a wine that does not fit the classic description for a white wine from sunny Sardinia. Most of its peers focus on freshness and simple lines. But this interesting Torbato-based expression offers notes of tangerine, white flower and exotic fruit. The effect is linear and direct but there is a good level of depth as well. The wine has the natural structure for 3-5 five more years of bottle aging.

This offers an excellent opportunity to taste Sardinia’s Torbato grape. The flavors are inviting and intense, including yellow fruit, nuts, roasted chestnuts and honey. Bottom line: It’s a wine with loads of personality.——M.L.(8/1/2007)—— 87