I predict rose wines will make a comeback, in large part because of efforts such as this wine. Made from fermenting Zinfandel must that is pulled out of tank with just the right amount of color saturation, this single vineyard rose (is that a first for California?) exhibits a light ruby color more akin to a lighter-styled Pinot Noir or red Burgundy. A robust Zinfandel, with surprising weight and flesh in the mouth with gobs of cranberry, strawberry, and cherry fruit, this comes close to being a full-bodied wine that tastes dry, although I suspect there is a touch of residual sugar hidden in the wine's gorgeous fruit. Sadly, only 300 cases were produced. Drink it over the next year.Winemaker Jed Steele's second label called Shooting Star offers much needed relief for consumers trying to find a good California wines at a reasonable price.Tel. (707) 279-9475

Longtime readers know I am never one to pass up a fragrant and flavorful rose. The strawberry and cherry-scented and flavored 1994 Zin Gris is a medium-bodied, fresh, lively rose that will satisfy both the palate and the purse. Drink it with an assortment of foods before the end of 1995.Shooting Star is the less expensive, secondary label of Steele (Jed Steele's middle name is Tecumseh, meaning "born under the sign of a shooting star"). The 1993 offerings reviewed in this issue are an admirable group of modestly priced wines that offer immediate gratification. Tel. (707) 279-0213 (Steele winery)