Toasted pears, white flowers, and minerals can be found in the nose of the 2000 Chardonnay Seven Springs Vineyard. An elegant, silky-textured wine, its medium-bodied character has lovely purity of fruit. Apples, pears, and smoky minerals can be found in its lush, long personality. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. "Regardless of what some may say, 2000 is not a great vintage," announced Mark Vlossak, Saint Innocent's owner and winemaker. "It's good, but not in the same league as 1998 and 1999." Consumers should pay particular attention to Saint-Innocent's offerings. Not only are they some of the finest wines made in Oregon but they are among the most reasonably priced.Tel. (503) 378-1526

Aged in 44% new oak barrels, the white flower, stone, and pear-scented 1999 Chardonnay Seven Springs Vineyard Dijon Clone has outstanding focus and delineation to its medium-bodied, broad, and crystalline personality. This pure, candied lemon, pear, spice, and mineral-flavored wine is juicy, complex, and expressive. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (503) 378-1526

Vlossak's egg nog, spice, and creamy anise-scented 1998 Chardonnay Seven Springs Dijon Clone is extremely rich and mouth-coating. Butterscotch, loads of spices, and super-ripe pears can be found in this medium to full-bodied, highly expressive wine. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.Tel. (503)-378-1526.

Among the three single vineyard Chardonnays I tasted, the two that can be recommended include the 1992 Seven Springs Vineyard and 1992 Freedom Hill Vineyard Reserve. The 1992 Seven Springs Vineyard possesses a blatantly butterscotch, oaky nose backed up by plenty of ripe, chewy fruit. Although there is excellent depth, a gentler touch of oak would have resulted in an even higher score. Once the fruit fades the only thing left will be wood, so early consumption is advised. St. Innocent has quickly emerged as one of the stars of Oregon winedom. Kudos to winemaker Mark Vlossak. Tel. (503) 378-1526.

The 1990 Chardonnay-Seven Springs Vineyard is a well-made, medium-bodied wine that takes no risks, but offers good fruit, purity, a touch of oak, and tasty, lemony, apple flavors as well as a crisp finish. Drink it over the next year.