The 2009 Pinot Noir Brosseau Vineyard is a big, dramatic wine layered with expressive dark fruit, licorice, new leather, anise and white flowers, all of which come together beautifully on its large-scaled frame. Powerful tannins frame the fruit on the virile, imposing finish. The balance of fruit, acidity and tannin is first-rate. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a wide range of wines from Tantara, including a whopping 12 different Pinots. I can certainly understand the appeal of vinifying small lots of fruit from a large number of top sites in the Central Coast, but it must be a huge challenge to properly supervise the growing of fruit in sites that run from Arroyo Grande to the Santa Lucia Highlands. These 2009 Pinots suggest a little more focus on fewer appellations might not be a bad thing.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036; tantarawinery.com

Tantara’s 2008 Pinot Noir Brosseau, which sees about 40% new French oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered, is relatively limited in production, but has loads of earthy, autumnal, vegetative notes that emerge from its medium ruby color. The wine is attractive, open, very evolved already, and shows some sweet currant and black cherry notes in a seductive style. It is a complex, mid-weight Pinot Noir that showcases the limestone sub-soils of this region. This is a dizzying array of wines, including four Chardonnays and eleven Pinot Noirs. Perhaps it is overkill, but the quality of the wines is very high, and Tantara remains one of the bright, shining spots for these varietals on the Central Coast. Among the four Chardonnays, two are from the Santa Maria Valley, the Dierberg and the Bien Nacido, the Talley-Rincon is from Edna Valley’s Arroyo Grande appellation, and the Brosseau from the limestone soils of Chalone. The Pinot Noirs essentially cover virtually every Central Coast appellation, from the Santa Lucia Highlands in the north to the Santa Maria Valley in the south.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

The dark ruby/purple-colored, medium to full-bodied, serious 2007 Pinot Noir Brosseau Vineyard exhibits plenty of crushed rock and chalkiness, no doubt attributable to this area’s limestone soils, medium to full body, good structure and tannin, and plenty of black currant, black cherry, and floral notes. This young, vibrant, full-bodied, structured Pinot will benefit from several years of bottle age, and last for 10+ years. This is a fascinating, exceptionally high quality group of Pinot Noirs. They tend to range in the mid-14% alcohol levels, with the oak regime generally around 30-60% new. Tantara’s policy with respect to fermenting with stems varies from zero to as much as 20% for the Dierberg, Evelyn, Bien Nacido Old Vine, and Solomon Hills. Production is relatively limited, from a low of under 90 cases for the Bien Nacido Old Vine and Brosseau, to just over 200 cases for some vineyards. The most limited cuvees are the two single vineyard lots of Burt and La Grande Colline, approximately 24 cases of each. Most of these wines, save for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. Kudos to Tantara for a very impressive line-up of Pinots.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

The 2005 Pinot Noir Brosseau Vineyard is a Burgundian-styled, full-bodied effort displaying complex aromas of earth, herbs, red and black fruits, and figs. It makes an excellent impression on the palate, offering persistent, lush flavors of cherries and earth. This relatively evolved beauty should last for 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036