Oak notes of toast, cigar box, cedar and smoke take center stage and leave the fruity tones on the far perimeter. The wine delivers a dark, brooding character with bright acidity and zesty, citrus flavors that work well with the wine’s natural acidity. Founded in 1973, this estate has an Etruscan-inspired cellar carved deep into the side of a hill.——M.L.(6/1/2008)—— 89