This is the first vintage of this wine to be released since we saw the 2006 edition. It's been way too long, I'd say. Slightly held back or restrained on first nose, the Valentini 2012 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo opens slowly and contemplatively to sensations of dark fruit, smoke, tobacco and cured meat. Despite the rather heavy and sun-drenched nature of that first wave of aromas, it's impossible to miss the enormous intensity and textural richness packed tightly underneath. That full-bodied power is a celebrated signature of this wine and is a consistent feature of past editions. Give the glass a few robust swirls and a second act is soon to follow. Those heavier dark fruit aromas magically lift to reveal an enormous color palette of camphor ash, saffron and wild licorice root.

A supple, distinct red that slowly opens with air to reveal maturing notes of leather, roasted mushroom and incense backed by sun-dried plum, cherry and currant. Silky tannins frame the tangy finish, which lingers with an aftertaste of game and spice. Drink now through 2020. 1,083 cases made.??–NW??Region: Italy / Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Select to Add

The estate's 2006 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is gorgeous. Sweet floral notes lead to a burst of dark red fruit as this energetic Montepulciano shows off its class. Smoke, ash, tar, licorice and a host of other aromas and flavors develop in the glass, adding further layers of depth and complexity. This is a decidedly muscular, intense wine that will require patience. As always, it is a touch rustic in its youth, but Valentini's wines have a way of acquiring elegance in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Valentini is one of Italy's cult producers, known only to a handful of loyal fans. This year I was only able to taste one new release, the 2006 Montepulciano, the first new vintage since 2002. It is a hugely promising wine, but one that is likely to test the patience of those lucky enough to find it. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822