Bursting from the glass with notes of smoky cassis, elderberry, pomegranate and nori, the 2014 Pinot Noir Hidden Block Spring Ridge Vineyard cuts a broad, lavish swath across the palate, revealing velvety tannins, an ample core of ripe, dark fruits and a long, generous finish. It's among the fleshier and more generous of these four Pinot Noirs, and it's already drinking well.

Possessing plenty of kirsch liqueur, soy, toasted spice and earth, the 2013 Pinot Noir Hidden Blocks Spring Ridge Vineyard is a medium to full-bodied, ripe, nicely textured Pinot Noir. It has good acidity and present tannin, and should drink nicely for 5-7 years.

The Pinot Noirs are grafted on root stock, and all three cuvées are under the Neely label, with the three-block blend under the Varner label. Sounds confusing, but that’s the way they do it. The 2012 Neely Pinot Noir Hidden Block is from a northeast-facing three-acre parcel planted with Dijon clone 115. This wine offers loads of earthy pomegranate, red currant and sweet and sour cherry notes, a dark ruby color, lots of spice, and a distinctive C?tes de Beaune premier cru-like personality. Drink it over the next 5-8 years.