Clearly the star of the show, the 2014 Chardonnay Bee Block Spring Ridge Vineyard is the most complete, layered and persistent white in the lineup. Possessing medium to full-bodied richness, solid mid-palate depth and fabulous precision and focus, with classy notes of sauteed apples, crushed rocks, spice and flowers, it opens up beautifully with time in the glass and is a killer white that readers need to seek out. I like it today, but I've no doubt this beauty will keep for a decade or more.

The 2013 Varner Chardonnay Bee Block is from a larger parcel of 3.5 acres with a northeast exposure. This is their largest cuvée of Chardonnay and shows spicy oak and hints of apple blossom, caramelized citrus, tangerine and white peach. It is lively, fresh, medium to full-bodied and, again, pure and impressively built for 5-7 years of cellaring.

An incredible effort, Varner's 2012 Chardonnay Bee Block Spring Ridge Vineyard (464 cases) comes all from 25-year-old Chardonnay vines that are planted on a northeast-facing slope that lies at an elevation of 670-735 feet. Aged in 25% new French oak, it offers stunning notes of white flowers, white peach, honeysuckle and crushed rock (there's serious minerality here) that slowly build in the glass, showing more more brioche and hints of nuttiness with air. Full-bodied, seamless and layered, with crisp underlying acidity and fabulous purity, this classic Chardonnay can be consumed anytime over the coming 5-7 years, if not longer.

Another compelling effort is the gorgeously fruity 2011 Chardonnay Bee Block (488 cases). It offers lots of honeysuckle, creme brulee, pineapple, mango, peach and wet gravel-like notes, a structured minerality, and sensational, full-bodied richness. It should drink well for 10+ years. These organically, dry-farmed vineyards located ten miles from the Pacific Ocean in the Santa Cruz Mountains are managed by two brothers. I was super-impressed by their attitude as well as their statement that “90% of what we do to contribute to our quality is work in the vineyard.” All of these wines are minimally processed with indigenous yeast fermentations, hand racking, and are produced in relatively small quantities, ranging from 95 cases of the Pinot Noir Three Blocks, to nearly 500 cases of the Chardonnay B Block. I can not recommend these fairly priced reds and whites highly enough. The Amphitheater Block is a two-acre, south-facing vineyard planted on its own roots thirty years ago. The Home Block is a two-acre, east-facing site planted on its own roots thirty-one years ago. The Bee Block, 3.5 acres on a northeast-facing slope, is grafted. All of the vineyards are planted in sedimentary, fragmented, rocky soils, and the brothers believe the Chardonnay, at least from the Amphitheater Block, is an Old Wente clone. They are not certain what clone was used in the two other blocks. I tasted three Chardonnays under the Varner label and one packaged under the Neely label, all 2011s, the coolest vintage on record with no heat spikes during the summer as well as a wet fall. There was no botrytis in these vineyards because of their high elevation. The Pinot Noirs are made from the Hidden Block, a northeast-facing slope planted with Dijon clone 115, the Picnic Block, a 2-acre east-facing slope planted with Dijon clone 777, and the Upper Picnic Block, a 2-acre block of 32-year-old vines planted with Dijon clone 777. Their prices are fair for what has been put in the bottle. www.varnerwine.com

The 2010 Chardonnay Bee Block is another rich wine, but there is so much depth to the fruit that wine’s structural components are nearly buried. Apricot, mango and honey flesh out in this radiant, totally expressive Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay. The Bee Block stands apart for its mid-palate density and sheer depth. This is a great showing from the Varner brothers. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Brothers Jim and Bob Varner describe 2010 as a cold year with two heat spikes that were shorter and less dramatic than in other parts of California. It was a long growing season, and the fruit came in 2-3 weeks later than normal. As always, the Varner and Neely wines were fermented in barrel, with native yeasts, natural fermentation and minimal handling. These broad-shouldered Chardonnays and deep, resonant Pinots remain some of the most compelling wines being made in California. Tel. (650) 321-4894; www.varnerwine.com